That’s Bologna.  A city unlike Florence, Venice, or Rome, offering a more intimate glimpse into everyday Italian life.

We first visited in 2024 and found ourselves drawn back for another month-long stay. This time, knowing exactly where we wanted to be, we rented an apartment just steps from Piazza Maggiore, the city’s historic heart.

What struck us immediately wasn’t a famous landmark or museum. It was the rhythm of daily life unfolding beneath Bologna’s endless porticos. Students hurried to class and nightlife, friends lingered over coffee and aperitivos, shoppers strolled beneath the arches, and diners gathered long after sunset.

We actually felt like we lived there. Bologna felt lived in—a city where locals still outnumber visitors and where one of Europe’s oldest universities keeps the streets buzzing with energy.

Bologna is famous for its food and serves as an excellent base for exploring the rest of Italy by train. But it was the city’s atmosphere that stayed with us. Everywhere we looked, elegant porticos framed daily life, sheltering residents from the sun and rain while creating spaces where the city naturally comes together. On weekends, the main streets in the center of the city are limited to pedestrians only…. but watch out for those bikes!

These are some of our favorite moments from a month spent beneath the arches.